Dear Ulitmate Umbrians,
We arrived at Palazzetta del Vescovo in Umbria run by the most gracious hosts Staphano and Pauola. You know how it is when you go to a good friend's lovely home and that good friend is a brilliant cook of restaurant standard and one of them is a wine fiend with a great selection of wine for you to enjoy but you are still in that wonderful space of not "dining out" but of being in a comfortable home ? Well this is how it is at Stephano and Pauola's place!!
Immediately you are in tastefully understated luxurious surrounds with a vista to die for and a pool that for the first time in our holiday, Italy's weather did let us down and we couldn't swim. But our room had a deep bath that was almost as good!!!!!!
Our first night there we had a sumptuous meal but of sensible portion control so that we could enjoy four courses. It was the first of meals here that were to prove sensational.
The next day, after some assistane and coaching from our hosts we headed first to Assissi. A beautiful village atop a low mountain where the Bascilica of the very good man St Francis or Francesco stands. It overlooks Umbria and is a must see- particularly the lower Bascillica. Here entombed is St Francis and many people belonging to a religious order , brothers, sisters or priests, make a pilgrimage to visit him. In his favor, he loved animals and eschewed all wealth, unlike many of the powerful catholics of the day. In fact he gave his money (and he inherited significant wealth) away. He started or created the order of Franscican Monks who wore simple robes and "Jesus sandals" in short, he was the real deal as far as living a humble charitable life goes!!
After Assissi we headed to the hereto unheralded village of Spello, recommended by our hosts - and it was sheer delight! A beautiful ancient preserved walled city with no vile tacky souvenir shops and being lived in and loved by the local residents. If you are in Umbria, make a point of visiting Spello,it's gorgeous.
We headed home to be spoilt first by a luxurious bath and then by an appetitivo served at 8pm from the masterful cellar of Stephano and then by another exemplary meal. Think, puff pastry casing of sweet red onions and mozzarella with a peccorino sauce, a pasta Ragu and pork medallions and a dolce too boot.
Words cannot describe how good this place is nor how good these people are at making you feel so welcome, so special and yet so at home. A unique and brilliant talent!
We may never leave!
Kelly & Siobhan xxx
No comments:
Post a Comment