Dear Tomb Raiders,
Never heard of these places ? Well neither had we but at Stephano and Pauola's suggestion we headed there to see the real Umbria. Bevagna was a find. And the drive to these places was of itself a discovery of how beautiful Umbria is. Another paved and walled city overlooking the beautiful valleys of Umbria. In the city's main piazza was the church which we entered. Not so imposing as such, save for the glass emntombed decaying corpse of some notable priest/saint/pope who may have had local significance.It's an odd thing for us less religious folk, that the remains of a notable cadaver are encased "snow-white" style in glass and robed for the faithful to pray to.....on the alter.
We wandered around Bevagna and it is like time stands still. The shops open around 9.30 and they close again at 12midday for at least three hours for siesta. The township literally goes to sleep and the only ones around are the tourists. It is a strange and yet wonderful tradition that the good folk of Bevagna will not let the modern world encroach upon their life balance as has been the pattern for many hundreds of years.
From Bevagna we headed to Montefalco, a town noted for it's linen and for it's wine (quell surprise!) We walked around this walled city, again beautiful and preserved and opted for a pasta lunch served by an Elvis Costello look alike. Time was of the essence as we had an appointment with a local winemaker that Stephano had arranged for us.
About 20 minutes from where we were staying in Spineta in Umbria is a man called Monero who grows and makes his own wine called La Spina. From a small acreage he produces two whites and three reds. When you visit his winery, you are taken on a wonderful journey of why and how he makes the wine he does and when we get home folks, we are going to see who is interested in sharing the importing (for personal use only of course) because it was simply fantastic!
The whites are two great blends of malvesia, grecchetto and another grape I can't recall. The reds are a gorgeous merlot, a Moltepuciano and a local grape which I have forgotten but starts with S. - sangrantina or something similar. Monero's wines are low in tannins but long on flavor so are simply beautiful to drink. And they are so inexpensive that it is embarrassing. So if you are interested let me know, we can do a shared case just to try and then get more later. But trust me, this stuff is great gear!!
We could have sat listening and asking questions of Monero all evening but we had to be back at Palazzeta del Vescovo to be fed and watered again- tuff work. We had yet another gorgeous meal of an antipasto, a first and second course and a dessert. I won't make you envious with the details but we petitioned Pauola to write a recipe book, if only for her guests to enjoy, because her food is that good.
We spoke to these lovely people well into the evening. They have worked all over Italy in a variety of jobs and this is a life choice to rebuild and renovate an old stone country house in Umbria and provide a holiday of great comfort to a discerning visitor. If you are after something truly memorable, yet not prohibitively expensive, we cannot recommend Palazzetto del Vescovo highly enough.
This is not a paid advertisement!!!!!
Lotsa
Kelly & Siobhan.
PS: Dad has still not been operated on. It is expected Friday or Saturday so I am waiting to hear. We put in a candle to St Francis in the hope that his leg break is mended and he doesn't have to wear jesus' sandals...........
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