Dear Nature Lovers,
Day two was our day to tackle one of the pathways between two of the townships. By deduction we had decided to go west east rather than the more common east west. The first path the Via d'almore ( walk of Love) was an easy boardwalk of only 25 minutes, the walk between Manarola and Corneglia - also a relative easy walk was closed due to two recent landslides. The last walk Venrnazza to Montorosso was considered the hardest albeit only 3 kms, so we decided to walk from Vernazza to Corneglia (west/east) a walk of four kms. Now had we done this Corneglia to Vernazza(east/west) and followed the natural fall of the mountain track it may have been a little easier, but you live and learn (and get a great workout in the process).
We started the day with a breakfast in the small piazza area that overlooks the tiny harbor of Vernazza. A crunchy hot foccachia with mozeralla and beautiful Parma ham and a seriously good coffee. The tiny township slowly awakes as small delivery vans arrive at all the vendors shops to restock for the next day's tourist onslaught.
We head to the back of the town and start our stair climb up. It's steep and quite a number of flights of stairs veer left then right winding fairly horizontally up the mountain. About 15 minutes later we are high above Venazza and start on the path to Corneglia. Breathing relatively heavily and already perspiring significantly we are pretty pleased with ourselves, thinking perhaps the worst of the incline is now behind us. We were mistaken - seriously mistaken!
It's fairly humid and we had thought that the cloud cover would burn off as the day progessed similar to preceding days. However dark clouds gathered as we walked and rain threatened. We were still climbing, albeit not so much with stairs as with rough hewn pathways etched into the mountainside. We soldiered on sometimes being passed by others, sometimes overtaking others.
Rain started to fall making the rock steps slippery and a bit dicey. But uphill is easier in the wet, than downhill. The views from up high were spectacular and although Siobhan's pictures we compromised by the grey skies, the sight of the townships and the coastal views were incredible. We reached the point where we descended towards Corneglia and heading downwards proved tricky. My sensible shoes that Siobhan was wearing, were proving not quite enough traction, whereas my trusty $25 Rivers runners brought to schlepp around and then chuck away, proved more than up to the task!
We arrived in Corneglia an hour and 40 minutes later, soaked in equal parts of rain and perspiration but we felt terrific. We stopped for a restorative cup of tea and then headed back to Vernazza to shower and change and do what we love most to do - eat and drink! After such strenuous exercise, we had some serious carb loading to do!!!!
We headed to a wonderful ristorante called Bar Barego where Siobhan had the local specialty of Trofie Pasta (the pesto, garlic, pine nuts and pecorino) and I had a simply perfect spaghetti with a roasted garlicky base. We inhaled our lunch! We then had what is probably one of the best desserts either of us have ever had. The local pannacotta is made using half cream and half full cream milk. These are mixed together, boiled and stirred, sugar is added and a small amount of very fine white flour. No gelatine. Once boiled it is placed into a mould and refrigerated. It is served with a burnt toffee sauce and icing sugar. I intend to replicate this recipe or die trying, so prospective summer dinner guests at Chez Gooch, be warned!!!
We retired for a Nonna Nap. Siobhan needed even more carbs at dinner, so had a linguine with crab. I ate another pannacotta!
Oh, what we would give for a massage.
Ciao ciao
Kelly & Siobhan xx
No comments:
Post a Comment