Dear Hikers,
The Cinque Terre is a rugged portion of coast on the Italian Riviera. It is in the Liguria region of Italy, to the west of the city of La Spezia. "The Five Lands" is composed of five villages: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. The coastline, the five villages, and the surrounding hillsides are all part of the Cinque Terre National Park and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Over centuries, people have carefully built terraces on the rugged, steep landscape right up to the cliffs that overlook the sea. Part of its charm is the lack of visible corporate development. Paths, trains and boats connect the villages, and cars cannot reach them from the outside.
Before hiking anywhere on the old pathways that link the five townships, we thought on day one we would train it between each town and see what they are each like. Each town is pretty and charming, Corneglia is high up the mountain with no coastal access, Montorosso has a significant sized beach that attracts many, Manorola is very quaint and Riomaggiore is the the unofficial" head quarters. Of all, I think Venazza offers the most, when it comes to lodging yourself here- with a broad selection of accom, restaurants and beach and water based activities.
The local specialty is seafood with anchovies (bleuch!!!!) a local speciality. Siobhan intends to try them - better her than me! They produce a cinque Terre vino Bianco here (DOC) that is quite lovely and an amazing dessert wine called schiaccatra - that is made through being left for long periods on the vine exposed to very hot sun so the flavor intensifies. Like a fortified in many ways but with a crisp dry finish. Molto yum!
As you make your way through each village you see the tourists who have elected to walk some of the old pathways behind the towns that have been used for many years before the train line was put in. For many Germans and austrians it's an opportunity to go hiking and so the ubiquitous Nordic walking poles are de riguer. Can I just say that many many people look on the verge of heart attacks or heat stroke as they make their way into the villages not realizing perhaps what they were getting into. The first walk between Riomaggiore and Manarola is a lovely cruisey coastal walk along a terrifically constructed board walk but from there onwards as you head to the other towns, it's a rugged, steep incline and decline and one that you need to know your fitness level to undertake.
We left the hiking until the next day and so after a very pedestrian visit to all the towns headed back to Venazza for dinner and bed. oh, and if anyone is so inclined, there is a killing to be had here in the form of quality sovenirs. Tourists are screaming out for them, and the best on offer are rubbish tshirts and teatowels.
The hills are alive with the sound of groaning..........
Kelly and Siobhan Xxxxxx
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